If there’s anything Jess Pryles doesn’t know about Texas barbecue, it’s probably not worth knowing. The Melbourne born “hardcore carnivore” now calls Austin home, having fallen in love with the city – or was it the barbecue?

“The answer is usually barbecue,” she explains. “That really was the main driver that brought me back here enough times to be the catalyst for the move. But I’m a big Texaphile now.”

And that first taste? “It was a beef rib at Artz Ribhouse, which is now defunct, and in hindsight now that I’ve eaten as much and as broadly as I’ve eaten it probably wasn’t very good by my current standards – but at the time it was just magical.”

And for a barbecue fanatic, Austin is the place to be. “Austin is arguably the barbecue capital of the world, and it’s certainly the barbecue capital of Texas,” she explains. “There are places that have been there since early last century, so the tradition of barbecue in hill country around Austin has been going for over a hundred years.”

More recently it’s been the epicentre of the slow’n’low movement – slow cooked over low heat to keep the meat as smoky and juicy as possible. “In the last five years there’s been a real renaissance of younger, kinda hipster guys creating barbecue of a higher standard with all respect to the traditional houses – and Austin’s the epicentre for that,” she says. “Nothing has captured people’s tastebuds and pricks people’s ears up like the term ‘brisket’.”

So what should you, the Australian traveller arriving in Austin with a rumbling belly and a yen for quality beef, know about the slow’n’low BBQ scene? What are the signs of a quality joint? When’s the best time to go? And what should you avoid?

Don’t fret: Pryles is ready to show you the delicious, smoky ropes.

Barbecue does not mean what you think it means

“The meats here are smoked for many many hours over indirect heat, and barbecue in Australia is direct heat grilling. And it’s difficult because the slow’n’low scene is starting to develop in Australia and we’re having to re-educate on words and meanings and the discourse that you have.”

Order like a pro

“Everyone orders by weight here because barbecue has its roots in traditional butcher shops and meat markets. So it’s harder for Australians as well because everything’s in pounds. So here’s a pro tip: a quarter pound is one slice, half a pound is about two, and more than that you’ll have to really, really, really have an appetite.

How to brisket

“With brisket you can order either moist and fatty or lean, which are two different ends of the brisket and those in the know will specify which end they prefer. I always say fatty for flavour and lean to know if the pitmaster is talented – because brisket is double the thickness on one end to the other, so to be able to cook that evenly requires some serious talent.”

Don’t wait for dinner

“Over here the good barbecue is a lunchtime affair: most will open at 10 or 11 and do a lunch service and when it’s sold out it’s sold out, because it takes so long to produce you can’t just throw some more meat on and hope for the best. Some are open for dinner, but I would say the super-pro tip is to avoid going in that three to four o’clock slump in between those two sessions because the food you’ll get is going to be held from one shift or the other.”

Know your bark

“If you want to sound like a pro, you’ll want to talk about the bark. Bark is the desirable black exterior – not to be confused with the ‘I left the sausages on too long’ black exterior. That crispy, rich-tasting exterior: if you call it bark, people will know that you know what you’re talking about.”

What are the signs of a good place?

“Generally look for a line – that’s always a good sign! And there should always be a woodpile at the side or back of the property, so you know they’re cooking with wood and not gas.”

What’s the definitive Austin barbecue experience for the newcomer?

“Without doubt the most famous is Franklin Barbeque (900 E 11th St, Austin, TX 78702, USA). Chef Aaron Franklin’s the guy responsible for the notorious five-hour lines, where even Obama queued up. But what he has done is consistency: if it’s not right, he won’t serve it. This is haute craft gourmet product.

“I’ve spoken to other places who’ve said if they overcook their brisket they’ll still serve it because they can’t afford to just throw it away – what Aaron did was say ’nope, if it’s not good enough it’s not good enough, which means everyone has an extraordinary experience. Also, he’s a phenomenal cook. Just know that you’re going to need to get there at eight or nine in the morning and be prepared to waste half a day waiting in line.”

Can’t wait that long? Jess Pryles’ top tips:

For original recipes, stories and more about Jess Pryles, head to her website.

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